Growing Grapes and Reaping the Benefits

By Katie Markheim

Nebraska Extension Master Gardener

April 30 – As the saying goes, have your cake and eat it too. Well, that can be true of grapes; grow your own grapes and eat (or drink) them too. Reasons for wanting to grow grapes in the home garden vary from person to person. The most common are for winemaking, making juice, jams, jellies, or pies, and producing grapes for fresh eating. Grapes can be grown for shade, ornamental, and landscape enhancements. Over 100 cultivars have been tested by the UNL Viticulture program, suitable for commercial and home plantings in Neb. Be sure to watch cultivar zones of adaptability. Set in growing zones 4-5, some options for the Panhandle are ‘Prairie Star’ for winemaking, ‘Somerset Seedless’ for table grapes, or ‘Valiant’ for juice, jams, or jellies.

May 1 – Grapevines are among the most easily grown fruits in Nebraska. In recent years, there has been a resurgence of grape growing as a commercial crop. However, grapes can also be grown in the home garden for personal use. Considerations for start-up include soil type, depth, and fertility, as well as planting site. Grapevines do best on well-drained, loose soils such as sandy loams, silty clay loams, and loamy sands. An effective depth of 3 feet will be adequate if well-drained. Moderate to low fertility is preferred to create a balance between vegetative and fruit growth. A soil test should be conducted to determine if fertility needs can be met. Grapes are full sun plants with an appreciation for air drainage, located outside of frost pockets.

May 2 – Grape production for home use is not difficult if attention is given to necessary planting and maintenance practices. Grapevines produce shoots from buds on the previous season’s growth; each shoot will produce the leaves, flower clusters, and tendrils for the current season’s growth. Most healthy mature grapevines will have 300 or more buds that can produce fruit. Pruning is neces­sary to remove excessive fruit clusters, creating a balanced vine that has neither too heavy a crop nor excessive vegetative growth. Pruning allows for adequate light interception, promotes good air movement through the vine, and minimizes disease problems, facilitating ease of management, including spraying, tying, and harvesting. Generally, pruning should take place in the dormant season, preferably in late winter.

May 3 – Grape plants pests include vertebrates, insects, and diseases, especially fungal dis­eases such as Black Rot, Downy Mildew, Phomopsis, and Powdery Mildew. Other important pests include birds, rabbits, and deer. Grapevines should be closely monitored for insects, and if Japanese beetles, climbing cutworms, or flea beetles are found, insecticides may need to be applied. Recommendations and the legal limits of chemicals to treat pests and disease change often, so please refer to the Midwest Spray Guide for Grapes and Small Fruits for assistance in deter­mining what pesticide to employ. As always, when applying pesti­cides, always read and follow the label’s instructions.

May 4 – So how should you let your grapevine crop hang out? Although many trellis or training systems are used in home gardens and commercial vine­yards, there are three that are easily used. Components of the grapevine include the perennial parts (trunk and cordons), canes, nodes, internodes, and buds. The High Cordon and Geneva Double Curtain systems work well for vines that have a pendulous (downward) growth pattern, whereas vines that tend to grow vertically are best suited to the Vertical Shoot Positioning or VSP System. There are systems recommended for specific grapevine cultivars. Please refer to NebGuide G2279: Grape Growing for the Home Garden for trellis diagrams and suggested styles by cultivar.